SKINCARE BALANCE
VITAMIN C SERUM:
WHY THIS IS A HOLY GRAIL, GO TO PRODUCT?
June 1, 2022/Written by Yany Ferrer, Ed.D
A skincare routine is essential to a skin’s health. Starting one as early as possible is essential. Informal surveys previously conducted had revealed that most people really started taking care of their skin in their 40’s. However, recent surveys have indicated that younger generations have adopted skincare routines in their early 30’s and even 20’s. When it comes to skincare, starting in your 20’s is the time to seriously nurture your skin. There are many benefits to starting this regimen early on and one of the biggest is anti-aging prevention. Once you establish your skin care routine, it is easier to maintain. It can also help to boost confidence….when you look good, you feel good. It keeps the skin healthy, which in turn keeps you healthier.
Often, you reach for vitamin C when you feel a cold coming on, but did you know it can also deliver smooth, glowing complexion? In recent years, vitamin C has become a holy-grail product for those skin conscious individuals. Vitamin C is no doubt a hot topic and rightfully so because it has so many benefits for maintaining your skin looking its best.
So, what is it?
The main benefit of vitamin C is that it is an antioxidant. It helps to prevent or slow damage to cells caused by free radicals, which are unstable molecules that the body produces as a reaction to environmental and other pressures. Vitamin C can be found in serums or other skincare products. Different formulations and types of vitamin C can alter the strength and the effects that it may have on your skin. Although Vit. C alone can provide photoprotection, it works best in conjunction with Vitamin C. (Telang, 2013).
These are the distinct types of Vitamin C.
L-ascorbic acid
L-ascorbic acid is known as the pure vitamin C..the most potent version and an ideal ingredient in skincare products. It is the most effective at penetrating the skin barrier. However, L-ascorbic acid will only be able to penetrate the skin when it has been formulated with a low pH level to neutralize charged molecules. For best results, vitamin C serums containing pure vitamin C, should be dermatologically formulated with low pH levels of less than 3.5 and at concentrations of 10%, 15% or 20%. If not formulated correctly, pure vitamin C can become unstable and will not be effective. Especially important to remember that ascorbic acid is water-soluble and oxidizes when exposed to light and air which makes the vitamin C inactive. Always look for opaque, dark, and air-tight bottles to ensure maximum stability of the product. When L-ascorbic acid is combined with other ingredients like Ferulic acid it provides increased stability and also adds a substantial synergistic photoprotection, essentially doubling its efficacy (Fu-Hsiung Lin, et al., 2005).
Other popular forms of vitamin C include:
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate - less potent than its bigger sister, it does not mean ascorbic acid will not pack a punch for complexion-boosting results! Great for all skin types, this less intense – though still beneficial – type of vitamin C for skin offers special benefits. Another advantage of sodium ascorbyl phosphate is that it behaves less erratically than ascorbic acid when exposed to light, air, and even water! You will still want to look for it stored in dark amber or opaque bottles but can have some peace of mind that it will not lose its potency so easily.
Sodium Ascorbate- Sodium ascorbate falls under the category of mineral salts. It is a great antioxidant and helps to lighten skin discoloration. It is also less irritating for your skin and more stable when exposed to light and air.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)- one of the most stable forms of vitamin C and most hydrating. It helps to soothe skin irritations with its anti-inflammatory properties. It is also great for acne-prone skin. MAP is a stable form of vitamin C which helps to correct skin discoloration from acne scarring while balancing overall skin tone.
Ascorbyl Palmitate- an all-in-one boosting and brightening derivative of vitamin C. It is also non-irritating for sensitive skin type and more stable when exposed to air and light than ascorbic acid.
Calcium Ascorbate- a mineral salt of ascorbic acid. It is often referred to as Ester C which plays a significant role in collagen synthesis, tissue and wound repair, and antioxidant defense. It also a good antioxidant which helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and eliminates dark spots. This type of vitamin C is also not irritating to the skin.
How to use it?
During your morning skincare routine
- use a gentle cleanser
- apply a few drops of a vitamin C serum to the face and neck
- apply moisturizer and sunscreen
You may experience a mild tingling sensation with the use of vitamin C. You can introduce vitamin C to your skincare routine gradually every other day. As with any product, it may take up to three months of consistent use to see a noticeable improvement. If you experience substantial discomfort or irritation, please stop using vitamin C and consult with your physician. Make sure to utilize sunscreen and limit sun exposure during peak hours.
Can Vitamin C be used with other key products and ingredients?
Key Take-Aways
- There are some tips and tricks that help to stabilize Vitamin C which include: low pH -below 3.5pH or waterless formulation helps. Furthermore, other ingredients like ferulic acid, glutathione, citric acid, or sodium metabisulfite also help. These are all shown in research studies to help with the stability issues. Protecting the formula from air and light is super important. The best is a totally airless packaging when it comes to Vitamin C formulas.
- The higher the concentration, the stronger the serum, though the benefits taper off after 20 percent.
- The price of these serums can vary, from about $10 to $250 per ounce. Look for the concentration of vitamin C this is usually referred to as L-ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid on the label. Some may have 10% while others may have 15% or 20 %. Look for one with a concentration higher than 8% which is the minimum amount considered significant.
- When choosing your product, look for one that also contains vitamin E, which helps deliver vitamin C more effectively.